Benvenuti amici!
The missus and I spent our summer holidays primarily introducing me to Slovenia. Her hometown, Šempeter pri Gorici, is a hop, skip and a tiny jump from the eastern Italian border and has ties to Austrian & Roman history. So, naturally, we also planned mini road trips to those two countries. I've read a good number of accounts on the history in this region of Europe. However, being there… among the people and sights/sites… gave me a better understanding of just what I'd read. It also provided a more intimate respect for what this nation of 2 million has endured. A little more on the hometown of the flower of our household.
Šempeter pri Gorici is an autonomous municipality with close ties to Nova Gorica. Nova Gorica is a kind of second capital of Slovenia. Although Ljubljana is the official capital, 'New Gorizia' holds very significant importance in the history of this European republic and is celebrated thus. Šempeter pri Gorici is, arguably, the most important neighbor city in what is something of the 'Nova Gorica metro area'. This is due, in large part, to what you will read in the Section 2 of this blog entry.
Šempeter pri Gorici is an autonomous municipality with close ties to Nova Gorica. Nova Gorica is a kind of second capital of Slovenia. Although Ljubljana is the official capital, 'New Gorizia' holds very significant importance in the history of this European republic and is celebrated thus. Šempeter pri Gorici is, arguably, the most important neighbor city in what is something of the 'Nova Gorica metro area'. This is due, in large part, to what you will read in the Section 2 of this blog entry.
1: "Cracking the Code and Busting the Myth"
Okay, we have that covered. I thought it may be interesting… and quintessentially CC5C… to share some of this with you. Before we get to that, though, we ought to take a look at the Slovene alphabet. It will help with pronunciation of words marked in bold letters.
Let's get one more thing out of the way. It is the 'elephant in the room' in many, if not most, ignorant USAmerican and Western European conversations regarding the region of Europe to which Slovenia belongs. The country is not of the war-torn, desolate variety chockfull of impoverished people wrestling to free themselves of iron-fisted dictatorship. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth.
Okay, we have that covered. I thought it may be interesting… and quintessentially CC5C… to share some of this with you. Before we get to that, though, we ought to take a look at the Slovene alphabet. It will help with pronunciation of words marked in bold letters.
A, a
B, b
C, c = cats
Č, č = check
D, d
E, e
F, f
G, g
H, h = loch
I, i
J, j = yes
K, k
L, l
M, m
N, n
O, o
P, p
R, r is pronounced with a trill
S, s
Š, š = shin
T, t
U, u
V, v = vex, west
Z, z
Ž, ž = vision
It's worth mentioning, before you come across more of the language, Slovene, like many Slavic languages, is consonant heavy and can be vowel light. This is because consonants make complete sounds that include vowels. Words are spelled as they are pronounced and not further complicated with more letters than are necessary to speak. As is the case with nearly every non-American language on the planet, each vowel has one dedicated sound. Intelligent, no?
Let's get one more thing out of the way. It is the 'elephant in the room' in many, if not most, ignorant USAmerican and Western European conversations regarding the region of Europe to which Slovenia belongs. The country is not of the war-torn, desolate variety chockfull of impoverished people wrestling to free themselves of iron-fisted dictatorship. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth.
Although you will find some Slovenians desiring a lifestyle different from what their homeland offers, most truly understand the fact they have it good… really good. Want to hike? Slovenia is a lush country with endless forests. Enjoy taking in rich history and other fact-finding outdoor goodness? There's more in Slovenia than you can fit into a month of daily activity. Want to take your hot hatch, motorbike or scooter out on a wicked cruise? Slovenia has seemingly endless mountain ranges… littered with equally endless vineyards. Want to ski? Slovenia shares the gorgeous Julian Alps with neighboring countries. Want to swim? Slovenia has so much crystal clear water one would think it is imported from the Caribbean. Nightlife (bars, casinos, pubs & clubs)? We're talking about Europe… pay attention.
Oh yes, Slovenia seems to have a bit of everything packed into a small gift-wrapped package. Tourism has been alive and well since the early 19th century and the country is also experiencing a spike in foreigners, from the US and the EU, leasing and purchasing land/homes there.
As mentioned in the opening paragraph, included in the vast amount of fun stuff is a rich past, linked closely to the Roman and Austro-Hungarian empires. These links eventually led to more than a fair share of painful historical periods. Cities in which significant social and political events took place are decorated with several historical site markers. These markers are written in four languages and usually include historical [evidence] drawings and/or photos.
They are meant to remind locals and visitors of the sacrifice/s made by the people of this beautiful country. Once, again, the missus is from a town called Šempeter pri Gorici, literally meaning Saint Peter near Gorizia. Gorizia is a neighboring Italian border town. The historical marker in the image above, for instance, explains/depicts the horrors Šempeter faced during World War I.
The town, inhabited by a 97% ethnic Slovene majority was evacuated and near completely destroyed. The Austro-Hungarian municipality was annexed to Italy after the war and, in May of 1945, liberated by Yugoslav Partisans. During World War II, it would act as one of the many Slovenian anti-fascist hotbeds and fall under Anglo-American military administration for two years. Eventually, it was annexed to Yugoslavia (returned to the Republic of Slovenia) in 1947. One can easily image the level of pride citizens of Šempeter must feel for their beloved town, which also serves as the Slovene Littoral (linked, again, to its time as part of the Austro-Hungarian empire) and the only doorway to the Slovenian Riviera.
A closer look at present day Šempeter reveals a very tidy small city with all the modern conveniences needed to get any urbanite through the day… that is unless you're looking for a McDonald's or a Burger King. The closest thing to fast food you'll find in this place is a kebab and that's good news. Closed and open air markets, as well as delicatessens, appear in decent numbers. Fresh bread and meat are in no short supply, tasting as fresh as the oxygen smells and feels. The big closed air markets found in Slovenia are Dutch SPAR (and InterSPAR) and Slovenian Mercator. There seems to be one of either within 5-10 minutes of wherever one finds hunger.
The star of the show in Šempeter, though, must be the clock bell belonging to this Roman Catholic church. It may very well be the loudest church bell I've heard. It seems excessive for a small urban town, but it also adds a lot to the character here. It is, of course, found in the city centre. Along with the church, is; the elementary school for this entire region, a pre-school, a rather large hospital, a private dentist office, a very nice hotel, a delicatessen, a barber, a salon, a pharmacy, two banks, several municipal buildings, quite a few national and international technological and automotive firms, a small auto repair/service shop among an assortment of other consumer exchange establishments.
A 5-10 minute walk in either direction and you'll find schools, a petrol station, the suburbs, neighboring sister city, Vrtojba, and Italy. This is a 'FIAT life' blog. It would not be right to exclude a FIAT photo here or there. But I must warn you, Slovenia is not a huge market for the brand. Instead, you are more likely to find Alfa Romeos among German, Czech, French, Japanese and South Korean marques. Older models, of any badge, are also scarce in Slovenia. When one does come across an older car it's usually an enthusiast model, like a '90s FIAT Cinquecento or a Renault Twingo. However, this is a record of the impression Slovenia and her surroundings made on me. So, let's get back to it.
Anyone paying even the slightest bit of attention to these photos has already noted how lush & green Šempeter is. This is something I refer as true urban planning… and is the norm throughout the regions we visited.
I believe most people would agree, fundamental to urban planning is creating a livable and healthy urban environment. It is a sharp contrast to far too many urban areas in the USA. Three more notable observations are roundabouts & traffic signs taking the place of light-controlled intersections, ample (and clearly marked) bicycle and scooter lanes and sidewalks… even in the suburbs. These are essential to a proper layout for livable shared space.
The people of this town and country clearly value life. Notice, below (and at least one above) is a photo of an uncontrolled pedestrian crosswalk. One may think it dangerous, but this is not your average urban dwelling. Slovenian drivers stop for their walking & bicycling neighbors… without heavy policing. They know the traffic laws and abide by them.
I won't get into how well Slovenia, from the Riviera to the Alps, maintains their roads… or how clean the streets & sidewalks are. I will remind you, though, this is former Yugoslavia. Prepare to have misinformation you've likely been force-fed turned on end.
3: "These are the People in Your Neighborhood"
As mentioned earlier, Italy is one of Slovenia's closest neighbors. I would be remiss if I didn't offer you a little peek of what is just west of Šempeter. I will spare you street photos of Gorizia, Italy. The historic town is pre-urban planning and is very grey. In sharp contrast to what's happening in bustling Nova Gorica, Slovenia, most of the younger Italian generation leaves their hometown for educational purposes and never returns. This impacts the amount and quality of planning going into its future. But, still, I would like to offer you these shots from the castle resting at the highest point of town.
I also want to offer you these shots of FIATs, sadly, you will not find in North America. The Doblo, like the famed Panda, the 500L and the 500X, is a compact MPV/SUV that makes sense in an urban environment. It's small and eco-friendly enough to play nice with a city or suburb of any shape/size and it's just big enough to be utilitarian a/k/a practical.
The Punto, an ABARTH pictured above, is bigger than the 500 and smaller than the Doblo. It is fairly practical and part of the family of designs responsible for birthing the VW Golf, the Ford Focus and the Chevy Sonic. Why these cars don't exist in the North American market is beyond my ability to comprehend. But anyone can easily see how good they look against this royal backdrop.
Back to Slovenia...
4: "Water & Grapes"
Next up is Solkan. Like Šempeter, it has close ties with Nova Gorica. And, also like Šempeter, its historical importance earns it the status of a separate municipality. There are two major attractions to Solkan and both are pictured below. The Solkan Bridge is the longest stone-arch bridge spanning over a river and the longest stone-arch railway bridge in the world. It stretches over the second major attraction in Solkan… the Soča River. Your eyes do not deceive you. The Soča is truly this blue. It perpetually finds itself on 'Most Beautiful Rivers Of The World' lists. On any given day, one will find people swimming, fishing and/or kayaking the river stretching from the Julian Alps to the Adriatic Sea.
Life abounds from the Soča and it did my heart good to see its banks clear of debris a/k/a rubbish. The majority of any tour on the western border of Slovenia will follow along this rich life source.
Next stop is Goriška Brda… wine country. Most people don't think of former Yugoslavia when they think of wine, but Slovenia is ripe with the vine. Goriška Brda acts as only gateway to the breathtaking scenery is this part of the freshaired Slovenian landscape...
If the roads, homes and churches of Slovenia act as testaments to the ingenuity of this former Yugoslav republic, the vineyards and farms are heralds of how wrong the West is in its record of the 'evils' of Socialism. Slovenians own land and have since they found themselves subject to the Austrian monarchy.
This diminutive country, with its respect for natural resources throughout its industrial evolution, has retained harmony with Mother Nature. The mere sight of it relaxes the body, soul & mind. It is no wonder eastern Italians, move (or at least commute daily) to the other side of the border. Meat, water, wine, bread and… yes… even pizza tastes better in Slovenia. This is largely because Italians did not take as much care during their industrial evolution. There is some hope for what's left of their natural resources, though. We'll get to that later.
5: "There be Dragons"
Next stop, the capital city… Ljubljana. Like many central and eastern European countries, Slovenia celebrates cerebral prowess over physical might. In the case of this country, culture is so important Ljubljana served as the historical center of Carniola since the days of the Austro-Hungarian empire. There are hallmarks to these facts throughout the capital.
Ljubljana, also known as The City Of Dragons, is dreamlike. It's a place poets, musicians, economists and politicians let their 'freak flag' fly along the there bridges (situated in the middle of the city centre). Despite my USAmerican complacency with major cities… "seen one, seen them all-like"... the place is quite a sight and an absolute day trip must.
When the missus asked me what I thought of Ljubljana the first thought that came to mind was, "This is how I imagine Austria looks." I would be able to draw a direct comparison a fews days later… and find I was absolutely correct. Ljubljana does, in fact, hold intact its architectural connection to the Austro-Hungarian empire. But its unique place on the planet lends a distinctly Slovenian layout and vibe. See for yourself, in the photos below.
6: "Castles & Caverns"
I've heard many visitors to Europe claim, "When you've seen five castles you've seen them all." But this is Predjamski Grad… the oldest functional cave castle in the world. Its earliest written record dates back to 1274. It was destroyed several times, but always rebuilt. The most recent case of rebuilding dates back to the 16th century and has remianed intact since. I consider this, yet, another wonderful debunking of the USAmerican and Western European generated myth about the 'evils' that is ex-Yugoslavia.
It is completely possible to hold the past sacred while stepping boldly into the future. Furthermore, it can and has (in this case) been done with high regard to people and their ancestral land/s. In the case of Predjamski Grad, complete with restoring a secret escape route.
Not far from Predjamski Grad is the Postojna cave. The cave has been a major attraction to the Karst region of Slovenia since Luka Čeč discovered the systems in 1818. A small train takes visitors deep into the system, and Slovene guides reveal its history in several languages. And that, kind readers, debunks another myth regarding the people of this land.
Slovenians are not closed people. Many, if not most, Slovenians are polyglots. They often speak their own language, a border country language and… depending on age… Serbo-Croatian. While it is likely, due to use, most Slovenians are only fully functional in two languages, the care taken to learn the languages of their neighbors and play caretaker of their land speaks volumes about who these people are.
7: "It's only Mountains & the Sea"
Let's travel from the black, white & red gothic caves of Karst region to the bright, shiny & blue Slovenian Riviera...
This is the Slovenian coast, consisting of Koper, Piran/Portorož and Izola. I think it's safe to differentiate the three municipalities that make up this region like so. Piran/Portorož feels very 'Monaco', while Izola feels more true to the soul of how I've come to know Slovenia. Koper is a happy medium… it is most definitely a place this FIATista-ABARTHista could call home (permanently). By the way, it is in this region (about 30 meters from the Izola shoreline) the missus studied.
Can you imagine getting any school work done in this region?!
These shots were taken on a short stop Bovec. This is one of the stops one would likely take off the old road that will eventually lead to through Italy, Austria and beyond.
There is little but green & blue as far as the eye can see…
The following shots were taken in and just outside of Bovec. As the birthplace of the European anti-fascist movement, there is no shortage of monuments to fallen TIGR and Partisan heroes throughout the country. Some of these monuments, like the one in the first photo, sit inside cemeteries. Other monuments, like the one in the second photo, are situated in the middle of town. Don't be frightened of the 'Red Star'. The Partisan ideology was born from the idea that all Slavic people are equal and should not allow themselves to be ruled by their aggressively fascist neighbors.
Yugoslav Partisans are among the very few groups responsible for self-liberation of brutal Italian & German occupation. In my opinion, the monuments to those men & women are awe-inspiring.
But Slovenia is no one trick [monument] pony. You will also find beautiful monuments to the end of land wars/power struggles and picturesque calls to peace. I find them equally appealing and integral to understanding the life philosophy of the Slovene people.
8: "These are the People in Your Neighborhood" - Reprise
This short section is when we get back to the hope for Italy's natural resources. Here, we find Tarvisio in very northern Italy. I found it to be one of the most beautiful Italian towns we visited.
Tarvisio sits just across the border from Bovec and is the remnants of a now defunct mining town. The mining site is marked with Austrian, Italian, Slovenian and European Union flags. It seems this is one of few places the three nationalities existed in harmony. For me, it is a beacon of hope… a place all citizens of the world should visit without losing sight of what makes this coexistence so special. Tarvisio is a shining example of Italy getting their industry-to-nature balance right. A once dead river is reclaiming its rightful place. The entire region is lush with wild grass and majestic trees. One of the cleanest lakes you'll likely find in all of Italy is nearby.
Tarvisio is a breath of fresh air… in more ways than six!
Onward. 'Next stop is Austria… just a short drive from Tarvisio.
We didn't have time to do much sightseeing in Austria. We essentially crammed 2-3 days of travel/exploration (Bovec, Tarvisio, Villach & Klagenfurt) into one day. Still, we came away with great photos and even better memories. The two photos above were taken in the city centre of Villach. The three photos below were taken in the city centre of Klagenfurt. I encourage you to read some of the history of the founding of Klagenfurt and the efforts, of this municipality, to nurture solid relations with neighboring countries.
Back to Italy. This time... Venice. Okay, I need to offer a disclaimer. Beyond the fact it is a technological marvel, I am not all that impressed with Venice. It is a very dirty city (I live in the US. I know dirty cities.) and filled to the rim with tourists… ALL THE TIME. This contributes to the cleanliness of the city and the connection, or lack thereof, one can make to it.
Italians look to be wising up and protecting their historical marvels. If done similar to what Slovenians do (even their caves use the latest technology to lessen damage and strategically limiting tourist traffic), they'll find upkeep that much easier and visits that much more pleasant/appealing.
There is little chance to take in the sights without being plastered to the stones, bricks & walls of the sites. Still, we managed to sneak around certain corners and catch what we think are some pretty special private moments in time. Check out the image below. Those are craftsmen building gondolas. How many times, in a lifetime, will non-Venetians get the chance to see such a thing?
Trieste, Italy (below) is better known to Austrians and Slovenians as Trst. This was another far too short trip. There is so much history in Trst a/k/a Trieste, it was sin-like to spend only a 2 hours walking the city. All but the very city centre is of majority Slovenian ethnicity. In fact, all road signs leading to Trieste are bilingual (Italian and Slovenian). The Italian-only language signs don't exist until one reaches the 'downtown' area. It is situated on the Adriatic Sea. Italy shares this coastline with Slovenia and Croatia.
I've included two photos that exhibit just how clean the water is in this part of the world. These photos capture sea life below the surface. I stood on the dock and used my iPod camera to take them. Still, you can clearly see their form/s and easily make out what they are. Amazing!
Of course, I've also included some Cinquinos in the wild.
9: "Bringing It All Back Home ~ Again"
Arrivederci, Italia! We're heading back to Slovenia!
Lake Bled, pictured below, is another must-see for savvy travelers. We had a nearly flawless pleasant time at Bled. The full day and partial night was only marred by two Italians, a man and a woman, who felt it necessary to sing Italian fascist anthems… at the top of their lungs... on the train from Bled to Nova Gorica.
This bothered me to no end. On a few occasions, I sincerely considered getting out of my seat and pummeling them senseless. But they'd done more disservice to their country than taking a beating from me would. Truth be told, it is not all that rare an occurrence for some northern Italians to take unnecessary and unfriendly liberties while traveling to or through the land of their more courteous neighbors. Despite the fact so many Italians travel to Slovenia for a modern taste of La Dolce Vita, my observation is my Latin brothers & sisters could still use more than a few lessons in humility & grace.
This, my friends, is a lesson for all. Courtesy & kindness, especially in a foreign country, will get you everywhere fast and with a passing smile. Arrogance & privilege may get you service, but you may want to think twice before eating & drinking what you ordered. Oh! You may also want to check your tires before you pull out of the parking lot.
Visitors to Slovenia interested in learning some basic courtesy words can find a few below. Despite the fact so many people there are capable of speaking English and/or Italian, they seem thrilled to hear foreigners make the effort.
Hvala = Thank you
Najlešpa hvala = Thank you very much
Prosim = Please, My pleasure
Dobro jutro = Good morning
Dober dan = Good day
Dober vecer - Good evening
Živijo! = Hi!
Nasvidenje = Goodbye
Oprostite = Excuse me
Oprosti = Sorry
Oprostite, račun prosim = Excuse me. Check please.
Here are some "… When in..." Slovenia suggestions. There is so much I could include here, but this short-short list will do the trick.
Here are some "… When in..." Slovenia suggestions. There is so much I could include here, but this short-short list will do the trick.
Visit Rusa Hiša. The decor is perfect…
… is perfect for the locale.
Visit Kanela Bar on the Slovene Riviera.
Sample the richness of the Slovenian vine...
Drink Laško anywhere..
… and pair it with Union...
… and, of course, Radenska.
10: The End is the Beginning is the End"
Sadly, this wraps up my account of my life-changing 3 weeks in Slovenia. The country (cities and countryside) is breathtaking. The people are courteous and humble, despite the majesty of their land and their successful heroics in the face of the tyranny of aggressive nations around them. The food & drink are as fresh as the air & land that brings them to life. This is a gorgeous nation of true human beings with a lot of useful ideas worth learning.
The time spent with family & friends was/is absolutely precious and too short. Despite the fact currency was exchanged during our travels, the experiences are nothing short of priceless.
I trust I will see some of you sooner than later. Until then, may you travel safely and by all means do so friendly...
Vivere.Amare.Guidare.
Ciao!
